Miss Havisham is the lead role in the story of the Great Expectations. She is a rather unbelievable character but plays a great role in which you can't help but love. She lives in a huge mansion, in which she never leaves. She lives within her wedding dress, due to the trauma she went through with her husband to-be. She realises he was only going to marry her for her great wealth. Ever since that day, she is a lonely woman who never sees daylight. She still has all of the wedding decorations including the cake all set up. She is stuck in a rut of heartbreak and refuses to move on from that day. She stops all of the clocks she owns in her house at twenty to nine which is the moment Compeyson (her ex) leaves.
Through Miss Havisham's madness and heartbreak, she adopts a girl named Estella in which she uses to create revenge upon other men. She is very unaware of the hurt she is causing between other people at her own expenses. Pip falls in love with Estella almost instantly and Miss Havisham is there to make sure Estella breaks his heart.
At the end of the story, Miss Havisham comes to the realisation that she is only causing hurt and pain towards others through her actions and begs forgiveness from Pip.
Miss Havisham seems to be a very confused, upset woman. She feels her intentions are right but they turn out to create more disaster than good.
Sunday, 8 March 2015
Miss Havisham's lack of Sunlight
As we are aware, Miss Havisham never saw sunlight as she kept herself inside ever since the day of her Wedding turning into a disaster. Due to this, she is seen to have very pale skin. The lack of sunlight can have many different emotional and physical effects on a person.
Here are a few examples which could have had an impact on the character, Miss Havisham.
Symptoms of Vitamin D deficiency
People who have a deficiency in vitamin D tend to feel tired, and suffer from aches and pains and general feeling of being unwell. In more severe cases (known as osteomalacia) can cause much more pain and weakness in the body. This can cause difficulties in climbing the stairs, and can even lead to the person walking with a 'waddle'.
Due to the lack of Vitamin D, it can make bones feel painful when they have any type of pressure in them, which is most noticeable in the ribs or shins.
Causes of Vitamin D deficiency
The cause of Vitamin D deficiency can simply be down to the fact you are not in taking the recommended level of vitamins over time. This can be due to following a strict vegan diet. Most of the natural sources are in animal based foods e.g. fish and cheese.
A lack of exposure to light can be a big factor of a lack of vitamin D. This can be most common for those in which wear long robes and head coverings for religious reasoning, or they have a job in which prevents sun exposure.
Those of which have dark skin means that the melanin in their skin reduces the ability to make enough Vitamin D in their bodies.
Emotional Effects of lack of Vitamin D
The lack of sunlight and Vitamin D can be linked and related to depression. This can leave a person feeling low most of the time, and unhappy with a difficulty to concentrate or make any decisions by themselves.
Miss Havisham
As we know, Miss Havisham never exposes herself to sunlight which can be a big problem in a lack of Vitamin D. This could be the cause of her frail body and weakness. She keeps herself shut away in a dark room with the curtains always closed. She has no exposure to sunlight throughout the whole film (2012).
She is seen to be a very outrageous character however I see her as a very lonely, and sad lady. She has lost what would have been her husband and therefore tries to find upset at other people's expenses. An example of this is making Pip fall in love with Estella so that Estella can break his heart.
I feel the lack of sunlight has a huge effect on Miss Havisham. If I were to put myself in her shoes, I don't think I would be too happy!
http://www.mindbodygreen.com/0-5999/10-Healing-Benefits-of-the-Sun.html
http://www.patient.co.uk/health/vitamin-d-deficiency-including-osteomalacia-and-rickets-leaflet
Here are a few examples which could have had an impact on the character, Miss Havisham.
Symptoms of Vitamin D deficiency
People who have a deficiency in vitamin D tend to feel tired, and suffer from aches and pains and general feeling of being unwell. In more severe cases (known as osteomalacia) can cause much more pain and weakness in the body. This can cause difficulties in climbing the stairs, and can even lead to the person walking with a 'waddle'.
Due to the lack of Vitamin D, it can make bones feel painful when they have any type of pressure in them, which is most noticeable in the ribs or shins.
Causes of Vitamin D deficiency
The cause of Vitamin D deficiency can simply be down to the fact you are not in taking the recommended level of vitamins over time. This can be due to following a strict vegan diet. Most of the natural sources are in animal based foods e.g. fish and cheese.
A lack of exposure to light can be a big factor of a lack of vitamin D. This can be most common for those in which wear long robes and head coverings for religious reasoning, or they have a job in which prevents sun exposure.
Those of which have dark skin means that the melanin in their skin reduces the ability to make enough Vitamin D in their bodies.Emotional Effects of lack of Vitamin D
The lack of sunlight and Vitamin D can be linked and related to depression. This can leave a person feeling low most of the time, and unhappy with a difficulty to concentrate or make any decisions by themselves.
Miss Havisham
As we know, Miss Havisham never exposes herself to sunlight which can be a big problem in a lack of Vitamin D. This could be the cause of her frail body and weakness. She keeps herself shut away in a dark room with the curtains always closed. She has no exposure to sunlight throughout the whole film (2012).
She is seen to be a very outrageous character however I see her as a very lonely, and sad lady. She has lost what would have been her husband and therefore tries to find upset at other people's expenses. An example of this is making Pip fall in love with Estella so that Estella can break his heart.
I feel the lack of sunlight has a huge effect on Miss Havisham. If I were to put myself in her shoes, I don't think I would be too happy!
http://www.mindbodygreen.com/0-5999/10-Healing-Benefits-of-the-Sun.html
http://www.patient.co.uk/health/vitamin-d-deficiency-including-osteomalacia-and-rickets-leaflet
Sunday, 1 March 2015
Memento Mori
'Memento mori is a Latin phrase meaning ‘remember you must die’.'
It is known as 'an artwork designed to remind the viewer of their mortality and of the shortness and fragility of human life'
http://www.tate.org.uk/learn/online-resources/glossary/m/memento-mori
This was very popular in the Victorian era. This was embraced by the Victorians even though the average life span of someone back then was 40 years. Due to photography being such a new subject to them, it was almost granted as an opportunity to bring the dead 'back to life' in a way they never could before.
Due to the high expense of photography, the 'Memento Mori' photograph would usually be the only photograph they would have of their loved ones. I personally find this a little creepy, but I can understand the concept of it.
Although the people were dead, the photographers would make them look as though they were still alive in many different ways. Some photographers would have the person/people propped up against something as though they were standing upright by themselves.
The picture to the right in particular is one of my 'favourites' (if that's what you can call it!). I am intrigued by the photo because of the blur of the lady and woman on the outer edge of the photo, and the crispness of the girl in the middle. It deters my eye away from the girl who is in focus and brings my attention to the people blurred. If I didn't know who was the 'dead person', I would question the photo and perhaps think it was the man and lady on the outside. The blurred effect is due to such a long exposure on the camera back then. They may have been trying to stay perfectly still for a period of time, but even one slight movement would have created this blur effect. It makes the image look very interesting and slightly horrifying in my opinion.
It is known as 'an artwork designed to remind the viewer of their mortality and of the shortness and fragility of human life'
http://www.tate.org.uk/learn/online-resources/glossary/m/memento-mori
Due to the high expense of photography, the 'Memento Mori' photograph would usually be the only photograph they would have of their loved ones. I personally find this a little creepy, but I can understand the concept of it.
Although the people were dead, the photographers would make them look as though they were still alive in many different ways. Some photographers would have the person/people propped up against something as though they were standing upright by themselves. The picture to the right in particular is one of my 'favourites' (if that's what you can call it!). I am intrigued by the photo because of the blur of the lady and woman on the outer edge of the photo, and the crispness of the girl in the middle. It deters my eye away from the girl who is in focus and brings my attention to the people blurred. If I didn't know who was the 'dead person', I would question the photo and perhaps think it was the man and lady on the outside. The blurred effect is due to such a long exposure on the camera back then. They may have been trying to stay perfectly still for a period of time, but even one slight movement would have created this blur effect. It makes the image look very interesting and slightly horrifying in my opinion.
The Art of Dying
Death became a 'fashionable' thing in the 15th century. In the 18th century, this came back into light and was popularised again. It was known that in the early Victorian era, an ideal death for those around was to hopefully hear some last words from their loved one, therefore families would surround the dying person's bed and wait patiently in case they had any last words. For the dying, it was a battle to stay alive before death.
By the late Victorian era, this was changed and families hoped for a quick and painless death instead of a slow and dramatic death.
After a loved one dies, there would be a certain dress attire that most people would stick to. This was because of Queen Victoria's way of mourning over her husband, Albert. The dress code would change in time with how the griever was feeling about the death of a loved one. The fabrics and colours they wore would change over a period of an average two and a half years. For a lot of people, this meant wearing these outfits lasted for the rest of their lives as mortality rates were always rising.
'Male mourning attire was fairly simple: mourning coats early on in the period and black bands on their hats and black gloves later. Women’s mourning attire would often consist of a black crepe dress, complete with black caps and even black ribbons tied to the underwear. Later during a period of “half mourning” women would be permitted to wear purple or grey. In addition to this women were expected to be isolated in mourning. Where men might be able to work through their grief, women were expected to stay at home, with visitors only allowed after the mourning period was over.'
http://www.history.co.uk/study-topics/history-of-death/victorians-and-the-art-of-dying
As previously spoken about, death became a production called the 'Momento Mori', which consisted of objects created as a reminder of their loved ones. A few examples of this are locks of cut hair from the dead placed into lockets, death masks, paintings and sculptures.
Photographs were also taken of the dead, but perceived to look alive. A way in which they would do this is by propping the dead person up as though they were standing by themselves, or they even went to the extent of painting open eyes over the dead person's eyelids!
By the late Victorian era, this was changed and families hoped for a quick and painless death instead of a slow and dramatic death.
After a loved one dies, there would be a certain dress attire that most people would stick to. This was because of Queen Victoria's way of mourning over her husband, Albert. The dress code would change in time with how the griever was feeling about the death of a loved one. The fabrics and colours they wore would change over a period of an average two and a half years. For a lot of people, this meant wearing these outfits lasted for the rest of their lives as mortality rates were always rising.
'Male mourning attire was fairly simple: mourning coats early on in the period and black bands on their hats and black gloves later. Women’s mourning attire would often consist of a black crepe dress, complete with black caps and even black ribbons tied to the underwear. Later during a period of “half mourning” women would be permitted to wear purple or grey. In addition to this women were expected to be isolated in mourning. Where men might be able to work through their grief, women were expected to stay at home, with visitors only allowed after the mourning period was over.'
http://www.history.co.uk/study-topics/history-of-death/victorians-and-the-art-of-dying
As previously spoken about, death became a production called the 'Momento Mori', which consisted of objects created as a reminder of their loved ones. A few examples of this are locks of cut hair from the dead placed into lockets, death masks, paintings and sculptures. Photographs were also taken of the dead, but perceived to look alive. A way in which they would do this is by propping the dead person up as though they were standing by themselves, or they even went to the extent of painting open eyes over the dead person's eyelids!
Friday, 13 February 2015
Contemporary Ideas for Miss Havisham
Although I was a little disheartened by this after coming up with so many ideas, I didn't let it stop me from excelling these ideas as well as focusing more so on the stated project itself.
These images I have found all represent Miss Havisham in their own way. The first image on the right with the high ponytail screamed out to me. It is a gorgeous high fashion look but it also reminds me of the Victorian era. Victorian women used to often have their hair very high on top of their heads shaped into a bun and sometimes had some decorative hair pieces throughout.
Not only is the hair great in that particular photo, the styling also caught my eye. I feel the straps around her body could relate to how Miss Havisham is feeling; trapped. The material of leather could also give an idea of strength and power over others; the power she has over Estella and Pip when she demands they play together. The next image also represents the way Miss Havisham is tied up in her past troubles of losing her husband on her wedding day, and the feeling of entrapment within her house as she never sees daylight. It is a beautiful picture and I love the makeup also.
http://www.brownsugar.ie/high-ponytails/
http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/eniko-mihalik-dons-daring-beauty-for-flair-magazine/
What is High Definition Broadcasting?
High Definition Broadcasting is what gives such incredible clear and crisp colours on the screen in comparison to a standard definition. Due to the great detail of HD, it can be a worry for makeup artists if they are working on Film or TV.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/faqs/bbchd_channels
The standard of makeup must be perfect as everything will be picked up on the big screen. That is a scary thought for us as makeup artists!
I found some tips from a man named John Woodbridge who is experienced in working on Film and TV with high definition makeup standards. He knows and uses all the up to date techniques; such as airbrushing.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/academy/production/article/art20130702112136285
Here are the tips from the man himself...
Prepare the skin
'Too much makeup can appear really obvious on HD. Cleansing, toning, moisturising and evening out the hydration of the skin is very important for HD. The better we prepare the canvass, the better the make-up will look.
Airbrushing
Many make-up artists believe that you need to use specialised cosmetics or make-up techniques for work in high definition. That’s simply not true. As long as you work to film standard, most of the makeup in your kit will work just fine in HD. However, employing airbrush techniques can give you a distinct advantage, so eventually you may wish to invest in an airbrush kit.
Airbrush cosmetics are made from micronized pigments that are far less detectable on camera. An airbrush kit contains a mini compressor. When switched on, this expels compressed air. The finish can be very lightweight due to the atomisation of the cosmetic. This is what gives the illusion of flawless skin and why airbrushing is so fast and synonymous with HD.
Another bonus of airbrushing is the length of wear. It tends to last longer than conventional makeup, and needs less retouching throughout the day.
The product is easily blended and leaves no hard lines of demarcation, so there’s nothing to distract the audience. If you have hotspots, you can lightly dust the area with transparent powder to lessen the shine.
You can also use the airbrush for highlighting, contouring and even to apply blusher. Poorly blended blusher looks terrible in HD, so use airbrushing to smooth out any imperfections.
Setting powders
One product that can sometimes prove problematic in HD is traditional setting powder. Although frequently invisible to the naked eye, these non-micronized powders can sometimes give the skin an ashy, dull caste on camera. Specialised HD setting powders are available in both loose and pressed forms to combat this problem.
Final checks
Most make-up artists working in television will be used to checking their work in the mirror, because in standard definition, as a general rule of thumb, the mirror sees what the camera sees. However, with High Definition, just as in film, you also need to eyeball the make-up closely. Any problems apparent to the naked eye will also become apparent on HD and film.'
http://www.bbc.co.uk/faqs/bbchd_channels
The standard of makeup must be perfect as everything will be picked up on the big screen. That is a scary thought for us as makeup artists!
I found some tips from a man named John Woodbridge who is experienced in working on Film and TV with high definition makeup standards. He knows and uses all the up to date techniques; such as airbrushing.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/academy/production/article/art20130702112136285
Here are the tips from the man himself...
Prepare the skin
'Too much makeup can appear really obvious on HD. Cleansing, toning, moisturising and evening out the hydration of the skin is very important for HD. The better we prepare the canvass, the better the make-up will look.
Airbrushing
Many make-up artists believe that you need to use specialised cosmetics or make-up techniques for work in high definition. That’s simply not true. As long as you work to film standard, most of the makeup in your kit will work just fine in HD. However, employing airbrush techniques can give you a distinct advantage, so eventually you may wish to invest in an airbrush kit.
Airbrush cosmetics are made from micronized pigments that are far less detectable on camera. An airbrush kit contains a mini compressor. When switched on, this expels compressed air. The finish can be very lightweight due to the atomisation of the cosmetic. This is what gives the illusion of flawless skin and why airbrushing is so fast and synonymous with HD.
Another bonus of airbrushing is the length of wear. It tends to last longer than conventional makeup, and needs less retouching throughout the day.
The product is easily blended and leaves no hard lines of demarcation, so there’s nothing to distract the audience. If you have hotspots, you can lightly dust the area with transparent powder to lessen the shine.
You can also use the airbrush for highlighting, contouring and even to apply blusher. Poorly blended blusher looks terrible in HD, so use airbrushing to smooth out any imperfections.
Setting powders
One product that can sometimes prove problematic in HD is traditional setting powder. Although frequently invisible to the naked eye, these non-micronized powders can sometimes give the skin an ashy, dull caste on camera. Specialised HD setting powders are available in both loose and pressed forms to combat this problem.
Final checks
Most make-up artists working in television will be used to checking their work in the mirror, because in standard definition, as a general rule of thumb, the mirror sees what the camera sees. However, with High Definition, just as in film, you also need to eyeball the make-up closely. Any problems apparent to the naked eye will also become apparent on HD and film.'
Wednesday, 11 February 2015
Gothic Surroundings
As part of my research into Gothic Horror, I took some images of surroundings in which I feel give off an ideal setting for a Gothic story. Here is a picture of the Bristol Temple Meads train station at night. I love the grainy effect of the image as it adds more of a spook effect. This was on my way back to Southampton from home and it was a perfect opportunity on a dark night to take some photographs.
The image below of the church is whilst I was in the car on my way to the train station. This is why the image is slightly blurry but I feel this adds a great feel to the picture. It makes me think of the unknown and gives a slightly ghostly, disturbing feel to it.
Whilst I was back at home near Bristol, I took some other photographs whilst taking my dog for a walk. There is a regular field in which she gets walked, and it has some perfect settings. There is a small abandoned building in the middle of the field, with greenery growing all over it. I personally think it is a beautiful building but on the other hand, could give a sense of fright for the unknown.I took a fair few images of the same building at different angles to see which gave the biggest scare factor. My personal favourite is the image from afar with the silhouette of the tree branches just in front as it looks mysterious and very abandoned.
With my other peers, we took a stroll down to the Southampton common cemetery in which we had the opportunity to take some fabulously scary photographs. The photos speak for themselves in my opinion as it is representing death with the gravestones and being in a cemetery itself is not one of the most comfortable feelings I have experienced.
Sunday, 1 February 2015
Lola Montez
The original name of Lola Montez is Marie Dolores Eliza Rosanna Gilbert. She was born Ireland 1818 and died in New York, 1861.
She was known for being a dancer who managed to travel around and express her passion for dancing in areas such as America, and Munich.
In 1846 when she danced in Munich, a man named Louis I was so struck by her beauty that he offered her a castle in which she accepted.
Montez was a figure of beauty, and she soon after published many different books. One of which, was based on beauty products, ingredients and how to look after yourself.
She created this book after she became a lecturer in need of money and some of her lectures were about beauty and they were a great success. This is how the publishing of the book came about.The book is called The Arts of Beauty, or, Secrets of a Lady’s Toilet with Hints to Gentlemen on the Art of Fascination (1858).
I delved into this book online and found out some interesting facts and information about the beauty products and ways in which they created them. What better way to find out information than reading a book from a lady who lived in the Victorian era!
In Lola's eyes, there were three factors which equalled beauty. They were; exercise, cleanliness, and temperance.
Exercise was/is a great important factor when staying beautiful. It was recommended by her to make sure women did vigorous exercise outdoors in the fresh air to keep fit.
Temperance is all about controlling yourself and making sure your body receives what it needs. Something as simple as enough sleep as this will take a knock on effect on your health and appearance. A quote from Lola's book is “A young lady, were she as fair as Hebe, as charming as Venus herself, would soon destroy it all by too high living and late hours”.
Cleanliness was also important factor in keeping beautiful as it was a way of keeping the skin fresh and smooth from any skin conditions or problems. “The frequent use of the tepid bath is the best cosmetic I can recommend to my readers in this connection”
In Lola's book, she also explains many different recipes for people to look their best. Here are a few of them:
1. Brightening facial wash:“Take equal parts of the seeds of the melon pumpkin gourd and cucumber, pounded till they are reduced to powder; add to it sufficient fresh cream to dilute the flour, and then add milk enough to reduce the whole to a thin paste. Add a grain of musk, and a few drops of the oil of lemon. Anoint the face with this, leave it on twenty or thirty minutes, or overnight if convenient, and wash off with warm water. It gives a remarkable purity and brightness to the complexion.”
2. Increase in chest size
– Tincture of myrrh 1/2 oz
– Pimpernel water 4 oz
– Elder flower water 4 oz
– Musk 1 gr
– Rectified spirits of wine 6 oz
(Simply mix the ingredients together and rub the mixture on your bosom for 5 or 10 minutes, 2 or 3 times a day.)
3. Tooth powder
I need not remind the ladies that clean white teeth are indispensable to a beautiful month, The lady who neglects to brush her teeth with pure cold water after every meal, not only loses the benefit of the natural whiteness of her teeth but she renders herself liable to have the disgusting evil of an impure breath. The best tooth powder I know of is made as follows:
Prepared chalk 6 oz
Cassia powder oz
Orris root 1 oz
These should be thoroughly mixed and used once a day with a firm brush.”
Lola also had recipes for 'beautiful hair' as this was a great importance in the Victorian era to have good hair. Lola believed “without a fine head of hair no woman can be really beautiful.” Looking after your hair was so important and Lola followed her own rules of hair guidelines such as; brushing your hair daily for at least ten minutes. and getting your hair cut frequently.
In her book, Lola gives tips and advice on which brushes to use and how "Two brushes are indispensable for the toilet – one for the rough use of cleaning the hair, and the other for polishing it. A black brush should be used for the former, and a white one for the latter. Ladies need not be told that washing spoils brushes. The way to clean them is to rub them thoroughly with bran, which removes all the grease, and leaves the bristles stiff and firm as ever. When the bristles of a brush become too limber for use, they may be hardened again by dipping them in one part of spirits of ammonia, and two of water. This will also thoroughly cleanse them from all greasy substances.”
Saturday, 31 January 2015
"Why Beauty Matters"
As I was researching into the beauty ideals for the Victorian era, I came across a BBC video that was created in 2009 by a man named Roger Scruton. It was all based on beauty and why it matters to the society.
He mentions eras involving the 18th century which is what caught my attention. If you were to ask someone from the 1750's to the 1930's what the meaning of poetry, art or music was, they would simply say 'beauty'.
Beauty was such a valuable aspect for people back in those eras. It was seen to be just as important as the truth and goodness in people. Beauty became less important after the 19th century. Art was aimed to disturb the audience, at whatever moral costs it takes. Roger Scruton believes that if we were to lose beauty, it would be losing the meaning of life. He feels things are becoming progressively ugly in terms of art, poetry, music, and even architecture. He feels beauty has lost its way and needs to be restored to its traditional position of creating something beautiful out of something even if the story behind it is pain and ugliness.
The documentary mentions a painting created in 1827, by a man named Eugene Delacroix. It is the artists way of showing the bed in all its sort and disorder. It is in some way an emotional blessing of his own chaos. From this painting, I personally feel distress and relief all in one due to the tonality of the painting. The screwed up bed sheets showing some type of cry for help. On the other hand, the lightness of the sheets gives a positive vibe.
Traditionally, art always had a meaning and idea about it. Now, art has become ugly as Scruton mentions. Some 'artists' have portrayed art to be whatever you want it to be, but has lost its meaning and way of people to release their emotions through music, paintings, or poetry.
He mentions eras involving the 18th century which is what caught my attention. If you were to ask someone from the 1750's to the 1930's what the meaning of poetry, art or music was, they would simply say 'beauty'.
Beauty was such a valuable aspect for people back in those eras. It was seen to be just as important as the truth and goodness in people. Beauty became less important after the 19th century. Art was aimed to disturb the audience, at whatever moral costs it takes. Roger Scruton believes that if we were to lose beauty, it would be losing the meaning of life. He feels things are becoming progressively ugly in terms of art, poetry, music, and even architecture. He feels beauty has lost its way and needs to be restored to its traditional position of creating something beautiful out of something even if the story behind it is pain and ugliness.
The documentary mentions a painting created in 1827, by a man named Eugene Delacroix. It is the artists way of showing the bed in all its sort and disorder. It is in some way an emotional blessing of his own chaos. From this painting, I personally feel distress and relief all in one due to the tonality of the painting. The screwed up bed sheets showing some type of cry for help. On the other hand, the lightness of the sheets gives a positive vibe.
Traditionally, art always had a meaning and idea about it. Now, art has become ugly as Scruton mentions. Some 'artists' have portrayed art to be whatever you want it to be, but has lost its meaning and way of people to release their emotions through music, paintings, or poetry.
Victorian Makeup
I have been doing some research into the application of makeup and how it was made and used. I was quite surprised with the information I have found, and how little women wore back in this particular era.
To wear makeup, was seen as disrespectful and 'cheap'. Only actors and prostitutes would be known for wearing makeup. Although makeup was frowned upon, being beautiful was what was seen to be an essential in their lives. Women would be encouraged to make their own beauty treatments from their own back gardens. They would make these treatments by using horseradish, lemon, sugar, lavender and sour milk.
Due to beauty being such a requirement in this era, women's diets and exercise routines would be very strict, and if they were to use makeup, it was seen as a way of 'cheating'.
Here is a quote from (Downing 2012, pp. 36–39) which I found this information from 'The insinuation was that absolute beauty is innate, promoted by a strict regime of diet and exercise, and to paint and powder was to cheat, suggesting sternly that a girl not willing to work hard at developing beauty from within did not deserve it.'
If I compare there ideas and thoughts to the era we are in now, I feel they make great sense of themselves. I am in slight agreement that people should be beautiful from within, instead of creating this barrier with makeup of who they really are. On the other hand, I feel makeup expresses your personality and preferences in some way and can bring out the best in people through the confidence of makeup.
To wear makeup, was seen as disrespectful and 'cheap'. Only actors and prostitutes would be known for wearing makeup. Although makeup was frowned upon, being beautiful was what was seen to be an essential in their lives. Women would be encouraged to make their own beauty treatments from their own back gardens. They would make these treatments by using horseradish, lemon, sugar, lavender and sour milk.
Due to beauty being such a requirement in this era, women's diets and exercise routines would be very strict, and if they were to use makeup, it was seen as a way of 'cheating'.
Here is a quote from (Downing 2012, pp. 36–39) which I found this information from 'The insinuation was that absolute beauty is innate, promoted by a strict regime of diet and exercise, and to paint and powder was to cheat, suggesting sternly that a girl not willing to work hard at developing beauty from within did not deserve it.'
If I compare there ideas and thoughts to the era we are in now, I feel they make great sense of themselves. I am in slight agreement that people should be beautiful from within, instead of creating this barrier with makeup of who they really are. On the other hand, I feel makeup expresses your personality and preferences in some way and can bring out the best in people through the confidence of makeup.
Monday, 26 January 2015
Victorian Hairstyles
Early Victorian EraAt the very beginning of the Victorian era, there was a period well known as the 'Romantic Period'. This was round about the 1800 - 1850's. During this time, there was a well known hairstyle called the 'Apollo Knot'.
The Apollo knot is made up of three parts which is the front of the hair is combed into a centre parting. Both sides of hair at the front are then curled into small soft ringlets which fall either side of the face, framing the face shape. The back of the hair is all tied into a neat bun on the top of the head. When creating an Apollo knot, women would either use their natural hair or false pieces. Some Apollo knots were decorated with combs and other adornments.
Mid Victorian Era
As the Victorian era progressed, the hairstyles throughout the years began to became softer and sweet looks. The bun at the back of the hair was getting lower and lower in comparison to the 'Romantic period'. Sometimes, plaits and braids were added into the hairstyle at the back with the bun. Some women of a younger age would even have soft ringlets at the back of the head for more of an 'adorable' look. In the Victorian era, women were seen to be as delicate as flowers therefore the hair began to represent this.
Late Victorian Era
Towards the end of the Victorian era, hairstyles began to become more and more elaborate and accentuated. Hair was sectioned into arranged piles of curls all over the head with soft long ringlet curls to just lie upon the nape of the women's necks. At this time, fake hair pieces became a lot more popular as it helped to gain volume and height in the hairstyle. Sunday, 25 January 2015
Introduction - Victorian Beauty Ideals
I am very excited to start the 'Gothic Horror' project this term as it is completely new and fascinating to me. I did not know much about the Victorian beauty ideals until now.. Next, I will talk about some of the research I have found about the beauty ideals in this particular era.
The Victorian era started in 1837 which was when Victoria became the Queen, and the era ended in 1901. 1901 was the year of Queen Victoria's death. Anon, (2015).
At the very beginning of the Victorian era, beauty was seen to be a very natural look. Women who were known to be of an upper class would wear minimal makeup which would include a tiny amount of powder to get rid of any shine upon the skin, and all lipsticks and eye shadows would be of a natural colour.
Initially, any bright and bold colours were unheard of and they would only really be worn by prostitutes and actors/actresses. The use of makeup products caused disagreements and religions were labelling them as 'tools of the devil' Kuchinsky, C (2007).
Similar to the past project I just completed, skin tone and complexion was a way of judging a person's social status. Likewise with the Elizabethan period, if you had a pale complexion, you were seen to be of the upper class as you did not have to work outdoors which would create a suntan. Complexion was a very important factor for the Victorian's and they would try and maintain a pale skin tone by using parasols out in daylight and even drink vinegar! Some women may have even drawn on blue lines to the create the effect of veins so it gave the illusion that they had translucent skin.
(ibid) also suggests that hair in the Victorian era was rather simple looking. It was usually pulled back off of their faces and was put into a chignon, bun, plaits, or curls. Long, soft curls were used to highlight the front of the face or even the back. Sometimes, women would also have tiny fringes made up of baby curls across their foreheads. A way in which was common for women to make sure there hair was slick and tidy was by using oil to smoothen it.
Giorgia, (2010), agrees with Kuchinsky, C (2007) as she mentions the use of oils in women's hair for a sleek, smooth finished look. She also mentions that clips and combs were put into the women's hair for added decoration. Women of this era would also very rarely cut their hair as it was what was considered to be their 'pride and glory'. The only expected time for their hair to be cut is if they had fallen ill. Even then, women would usually add false hair to give a little extra volume to make up for their losses.
Dresses in the early 19th century were known for there revealing low cut necklines, with high waists and flowing skirts. Suggested by Riley, (1989), this look was soon replaced by 'upholstered fullness that characterized the Romantic style'. The costume was then more seen to be of an hour glass shape with huge puffed out sleeves.
As the era went on, the fullness of the skirts increased. In 1842, the crinoline was introduced (a stiff circle of horsehair, which then progressed onto using whalebone or a metal hooped cage).
'A popular opinion of many historical clothing “experts” is that the birth of the Victorian dress with all of its pomp and flamboyance came about because the leading clothing designers of the day were men. Men that had a biased and possibly unattainable idea of what women should look like. Therefore you have such an outlandish style (By today’s standards) with exaggerated curves and unbearably thin waistlines. No consideration was given to comfort and practicality.'
I find this particular quote from a website I was reading very interesting and believable. It is very sexist and inconsiderate for the female bodies in which had to wear such uncomfortable, tight clothing.
The Victorian era started in 1837 which was when Victoria became the Queen, and the era ended in 1901. 1901 was the year of Queen Victoria's death. Anon, (2015).
At the very beginning of the Victorian era, beauty was seen to be a very natural look. Women who were known to be of an upper class would wear minimal makeup which would include a tiny amount of powder to get rid of any shine upon the skin, and all lipsticks and eye shadows would be of a natural colour.
Initially, any bright and bold colours were unheard of and they would only really be worn by prostitutes and actors/actresses. The use of makeup products caused disagreements and religions were labelling them as 'tools of the devil' Kuchinsky, C (2007).
Similar to the past project I just completed, skin tone and complexion was a way of judging a person's social status. Likewise with the Elizabethan period, if you had a pale complexion, you were seen to be of the upper class as you did not have to work outdoors which would create a suntan. Complexion was a very important factor for the Victorian's and they would try and maintain a pale skin tone by using parasols out in daylight and even drink vinegar! Some women may have even drawn on blue lines to the create the effect of veins so it gave the illusion that they had translucent skin.
(ibid) also suggests that hair in the Victorian era was rather simple looking. It was usually pulled back off of their faces and was put into a chignon, bun, plaits, or curls. Long, soft curls were used to highlight the front of the face or even the back. Sometimes, women would also have tiny fringes made up of baby curls across their foreheads. A way in which was common for women to make sure there hair was slick and tidy was by using oil to smoothen it.Giorgia, (2010), agrees with Kuchinsky, C (2007) as she mentions the use of oils in women's hair for a sleek, smooth finished look. She also mentions that clips and combs were put into the women's hair for added decoration. Women of this era would also very rarely cut their hair as it was what was considered to be their 'pride and glory'. The only expected time for their hair to be cut is if they had fallen ill. Even then, women would usually add false hair to give a little extra volume to make up for their losses.
Dresses in the early 19th century were known for there revealing low cut necklines, with high waists and flowing skirts. Suggested by Riley, (1989), this look was soon replaced by 'upholstered fullness that characterized the Romantic style'. The costume was then more seen to be of an hour glass shape with huge puffed out sleeves.As the era went on, the fullness of the skirts increased. In 1842, the crinoline was introduced (a stiff circle of horsehair, which then progressed onto using whalebone or a metal hooped cage).
'A popular opinion of many historical clothing “experts” is that the birth of the Victorian dress with all of its pomp and flamboyance came about because the leading clothing designers of the day were men. Men that had a biased and possibly unattainable idea of what women should look like. Therefore you have such an outlandish style (By today’s standards) with exaggerated curves and unbearably thin waistlines. No consideration was given to comfort and practicality.'
I find this particular quote from a website I was reading very interesting and believable. It is very sexist and inconsiderate for the female bodies in which had to wear such uncomfortable, tight clothing.
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